Archive for April, 2009

The Clift Hotel, San Francisco, CA

Monday, April 27th, 2009
The Redwood Room at the Clift Hotel.

See and be seen at the Redwood Room at the Clift Hotel.

Celebrities love a dark, styly hotel. That’s why, when anyone who’s anyone arrives in San Francisco, it’s a good bet that before long they’ll turn up at the Clift.

There’s good reason for this. The Clift has hipster-celeb cred. There is no sign — you (or rather, your driver) just need to know. It’s on the edge of the theater district in the dodgy Tenderloin area. (Hipsters love marginal neighborhoods.) The furnishings in the lobby and throughout the hotel were designed by Philippe Starck.

It also has a landmark San Francisco bar, the Redwood Room and well-known  Asia de Cuba restaurant. The dark, glamorous Redwood Room has an ever-changing display of digital art displayed on plasma screens around the room.

And did I mention it’s dark? Even the elevators feel like being inside of a trendy nightclub.

I’ve only been to there a handful of times, but enough to sit in on an interview with Parker Posey, assist on a photo shoot with Lily Tomlin, and see Lucinda Williams and her band knock back a few in the bar.

Philippe Starck-designed furnishings at the Clift.

Philippe Starck-designed furnishings at the Clift Hotel in San Francisco.

The rooms are bright and comfortable though. With lots of mirrors, goose down comforters and Frette linens. There are 373 rooms in 17 floors. Prices range from $180 to $800 and they offer special deals and upgrades on the website.

Oh, and it’s located at 495 Geary at Taylor. Just tell the driver.

Photos courtesy of Flickr.

pixelstats trackingpixel

The San Francisco “Jukebook” Marriott on Fourth and Mission in San Francisco

Saturday, April 25th, 2009
The San Francisco Marriott resembles an old-time jukebox.

The SF Marriott resembles a jukebox.

OK, I know, the Marriott — huge, worldwide chain. Not my usual quirky, historic, boutiquey, or offbeat lodging post. But, this Marriott is cool.

Let’s start with the architecture. If you’ve ever seen the San Francisco skyline, you may have wondered about the funky, 39-story green-tinted glass behemoth that looms South of Market, near the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art. Locals despised it when it first went up, and many still do.

It has a stepped silhouette reminiscent of a Mayan pyramid rising to an enormous fan window on the top that looks like a massive Deco-style jukebox, thus the nickname.

The entire 39th floor encompasses The View Lounge, which offers staggering, if vertigo-inducing panoramic views of San Francisco, the bay, and beyond. It’s worth the price of an (overpriced) cocktail just to sit back in the piano bar and savor one of the city’s best public vantage points.

In headier times, when most everyone still had jobs, my husband used to celebrate his birthday at the top every year. We summoned a big crew of friends to take over one of the sections of the lounge, getting there early enough to watch the sunset and the city lights come up. It was a spectacular show that reminded us why we live in such a beautiful place.

The expansive lobby at the Marriott.

The expansive lobby at the SF Marriott.

The 1,500 rooms of the San Francisco Marriott are situated in a hip, burgeoning area, that was untill recently on the edge of sketchville, but is now a prime location.

SFMOMA is one block to the east, Westfield shopping centre (Nordstroms, Bloomies and hundreds of other shops and restaurants), is a block to the west. The lovely Yerba Buena gardens with a center for the arts performance space and gallery, Zeum (a children’s interactive museum/art space), a rooftop playground, skating rink, and carousel are just across the street.

There are currently seven different special Marriott promotional packages being offered — from weekend getaways to shopping and city attraction specials, starting from $159.

It might be a corporate chain, but you know the level of quality you’re getting with the brand, and there are few views to match anywhere in the city.

Photos courtesy of the Marriott

pixelstats trackingpixel

Joie de Vivre launches Summer California Sweepstakes

Monday, April 20th, 2009
Joie de Vivre launched a sweepstakes for 70 nights of free lodgings.

Joie de Vivre launched a sweepstakes for 70 nights of free lodgings.

I’ve written posts about several Joie de Vivre hotels in San Francisco — including Hotel del Sol, the Phoenix Hotel, Hotel Vitale, and the Laurel Inn.  All of the JDV boutique hotels I’ve visited share similar traits including friendly service, eye-catching design and little niceties like fresh-baked cookies, free yoga classes, or spa bath products.

Now Chip Conley, founder of Joie de Vivre, had decided to take the sting off summer travel budget woes with this new promotion that gives away 25 Explore California Passports — each valued at $17,000.

This is a sweet deal. Visit their Summer California promo link to register. You’ll receive a tip sheet with 100 ideas of affordable things to do in California — from the Dolores Park Movie night in San Francisco to the Getty Museum in Los Angeles, and Point Sur Lighthouse in Big Sur in the middle — as well as a $25 per night credit for booking a hotel on the website.

The 25 Passport winners receive two-night stays at each of the 35 Joie de Vivre properties — that’s 70 free nights of lodging! The passports are valid for two years, are transferable to friends and family, and have no blackout dates.

The $25 credit can be used for room service, dining, spa services and parking at any of their hotels.

Joie de Vivre operates 35 one-of-a-kind hotels in California, 20 restaurants, and four spas.

Good luck!

pixelstats trackingpixel

Washington Square Inn, North Beach, San Francisco, CA

Saturday, April 18th, 2009
The Washington Square Inn is the best location to stay in SF.

The Washington Square Inn is the best location to stay in San Francisco.

At the corner of Stockton and Filbert Streets, the Washington Square Inn has my vote for the most perfect location of any San Francisco lodgings. Bar nothing.

I was invited to this by owners Dan and Maria Levin to spend the night last week. I hurried over to North Beach after work where I met my husband at O’Reilly’s Pub (a former haunt of ours back in the days pre-Kids) then checked into room eight, dominated by a view of the spires of Sts. Peter and Paul piercing blue sky.

The view from Room 8 at the Washington Square Inn.

The view from Room 8 at the Washington Square Inn.

I settled onto the window seat and gazed out over Washington Square Park, one of the city’s true treasures. A handsome guy in shorts threw a frisbee to a dog, old Italian men in hats argued with each other on a park bench, hands gesticulating wildly, a gaggle of pretty girls were catching the last waning rays of sun, and a group of tai chi practitioners made slow movements in sync.

Our room was comfortable and elegant, with muted calm colors. Baroque-style antiques were juxtaposed with a flat screen television, and the California king bed was topped with an extraordinarily comfy Serta pillow-top mattress.

The other rooms I viewed had similar tasteful furnishings and color schemes. The ones that don’t have views of the park or Filbert Street look out onto a little landscaped courtyard that affords these quieter, inside rooms with additional light. Prices range from to $179 to $329, check here for specials and packages.

The location, smack in the heart of North Beach and at the foot of Telegraph Hill means a wealth of great restaurants — from Sushi on North Beach and Da Flora to Firenze and Tommaso’s. Having lived in the ‘hood for several years before moving to the Panhandle, we’ve dined at many of the greats, but we decided to check out something new and chose to eat at Piazza Pellegrini, opposite the inn on Columbus Ave.

Mistake. The food was ridiculously mediocre — when I don’t finish a half-order of spaghetti Carbonara something is definitely amiss — and the place a real tourist trap. It was disappointing to not get a good meal in North Beach, but we moved on to Tony Nik’s and Amante where we met friends for cocktails.

The legendary Caffe Trieste in N. Beach.

The legendary Caffe Trieste in North Beach.

Next morning, we availed ourselves of the option to enjoy the Continental breakfast in our lovely room. There is also a large breakfast table downstairs in the lobby and a cozy seating area, where guests can curl up in front the fireplace with coffee and a newspaper.

Then it was out into the old neighborhood for a leisurely morning. We stopped at Liguria Bakery to pick up a few slabs of the best focaccia ever made by the hand of man. Focaccia is all that this old school family-owned bakery makes. They start selling early and close up shop when they run out. People line up down the block during holidays and leave with bundles of white waxed paper tied up with strings. I picked some up for our dinner party that night.

We had coffee at the historic Caffe Trieste that roasts their own coffee beans and sustains a unique music scene. On Saturday mornings, the Giotto family hosts a long-running concert featuring opera, jazz, ballads and Italian classics. That morning, a guitarist and mandolin player were jamming to Beatles tunes at the sunny corner caffe where we bumped into a local SF politico. Then on the advice of Maria, our knowledgeable innkeeper, we visited the National Shrine of St. Francis of Assisi across the street to see the newly opened  of the “Porzincula,” a replica of the little church built by San Francisco’s patron saint in Assisi.

Ah, another lovely day in North Beach. Doesn’t get much better.

Photos by Lisa Dion.

pixelstats trackingpixel

The Gaige House, Glen Ellen, Sonoma Valley, CA

Monday, April 13th, 2009
Victorian meets Japanese at the Gaige House.

Victorian meets Japanese at the Gaige House in Glen Ellen, Sonoma Valley, CA.,

My first foray into travel writing was to assist a quirky little British man who had been writing for Insight Guides for decades. The assignment was to research and create a guidebook to the Napa and Sonoma Wine Country for IG.

Sounds glamorous, yes?

He picked me up at my apartment in San Francisco and I knew right away I was in for a bumpy ride. His car looked like a homeless person lived in it. And after the first two intersections, I was positive I’d never make it our alive. He was the worst driver I’ve ever witnessed — to this day. And that was in 1997.

But it gets better.

Our sleeping arrangement for the first night was in a double room at a pleasant Healdsburg inn. It was after we’d arrived and I was uncomfortably claiming my corner of the room when he dropped trou and casually mentioned that he was a nudist. Yup, I’d signed on for two weeks of working closely beside, and traveling with, an old man who likes to hang out naked.

Next morning, I took over the task of booking all of our accommodations.

The zen suites at the Gaige House are the ultimate.

The zen suites at the Gaige House are the ultimate rejuvenation.

I managed to get the last two rooms at the Gaige House for the following night. I practically kissed the innkeeper when I arrived. It was a wonderful experience, not the least of which was having my own room down the hall from Naked Guy but because also because it is one of the sweetest finds in the Sonoma Valley.

The Gaige House has evolved considerably since I visited. An expansion and redesign in 2006 included an addition to the main Victorian building, Japanese-style gardens, soaking tubs and a pool. Today there are 23 room accommodations including 13 spacious spa suites.

If you stay, there’s a good chance that you might not want to leave your Zen-inspired room, but Glen Ellen is a sweet Wine Country village worth exploring. Stop for a tram tour of the biodynamic Benziger Winery, hike in Jack London State Park or watch oil being pressed at the Olive Press, but make sure to have a drink at the London Lodge and mingle the locals — winemakers and waitresses, bikers and bon vivants.

I learned a lot that trip — grace under pressure for sure. John Wilcox turned out to be a harmless little man with great stories, and a good teacher to boot. But try as he did, my travel writing mentor never got me to take my clothes off.

Photos by Lisa Dion (top) and courtesy of the Gaige House (below).

pixelstats trackingpixel

The Marina Motel, Lombard Street, San Francicso, CA

Saturday, April 11th, 2009
The Marina Motel is a garden oasis.

The Marina Motel is a garden oasis, tucked away off Lombard Street in the Maina district.

A motel is usually just that — a motel. A low-budget place to park your car and put your head down for the night. There is no shortage of them along the noisy, traffic-choked span of San Francisco’s Lombard Street from Van Ness to Richardson Avenues.

I’ve written about a couple of Lombard Street lodgings, and while the Hotel del Sol is a colorful option (with a pool) and the Edward II is a charming work-in-progress, the Marina Motel is a true standout.

The charming Marina Motel.

The charming Marina Motel.

The trompe l’oeil murals on the outside drew me into this charming courtyard oasis. Lombard Street is busy and loud, but within protected walls of this family-owned “motor hotel,” is a peaceful place overflowing with flowers — bouganvellia, fuschia, geraniums, poppies, lillies, succulents, and jasmine in terracotta pots, on wrought iron balconies and climbing on vines. In the places that aren’t busting with blooms, delicate murals like the ones outside, depict them. The Marina Motel was built in 1930 by the current owners, grandfather to coincide with the building of the Golden Gate Bridge.

Forty immaculate rooms range in price from $95 to $299, depending on size and season. Nearly half have good-sized, homey kitchenettes. All have private garages. Family rooms sleep up to five, and dogs are welcome in many of the rooms for an additional $10.

With the garages below, kitchens in most rooms, and little conversation areas, the airy, sun-filled suites and rooms at this Mediterranean bungalow-style motel feel more like little pied-a-terre city apartments then a motor lodge.

Amenities include a coupon for breakfast at Judy’s Cafe, a legendary San Francisco breakfast joint that serves delicious “cowboy-sized” meals.

The Marina location is convenient to the Golden Gate Bridge, Crissy field, the Presidio and great shopping and dining on Chestnut and Union Streets.

On my way out of the office, I noticed a message to staff in all caps on the office white board that said “No Dead Heads.” So, if that’s the way you roll, you might want to leave your musical predilection out of the conversation when reserving your room, but consider yourself warned. And no all-night jams, please.

Photos by Dan Dion

pixelstats trackingpixel

Nob Hill’s Huntington Hotel, San Francisco, CA

Monday, April 6th, 2009
The Huntington Hotel, understatement money can't buy.

The Huntington Hotel, money can't buy understatement and class.

Old money has a certain look, taste, feel. It’s hard to define and impossible to buy. It’s an air of exclusivity and elegance combined with refined understatement.

The Huntington Hotel captures this essence. Family-owned since 1924, it’s a place where publicity-shy celebrities and dignitaries stay in discreet, if a bit faded, luxury. The building, high on top of tony Nob Hill, one of San Francisco’s most moneyed ‘hoods was built as an apartment building that soon became a coveted San Francisco address.

Standing in the lobby, it’s easy to imagine San Francisco’s well-heeled “Cafe Society” of the 40s and 50s flocking to the Zebra Room which later became Romanoff’s, a nightclub that catered to the Cirque Room crowd.

The historic Huntington has beautiful old bones and due to its origins, none of the 136 rooms are alike. Original apartment-sized rooms and suites were maintained when converting it into a hotel, giving guests more space and unique lodgings.

The Huntington may feel a little stuffy to some or a tad worn in places, but it definitely maintains the feeling of being in someplace posh and regal. I love it. It has an old-world level of service and a palpable history.

The Nob Hill Spa at the Huntington Hotel.

The Nob Hill Spa at the Huntington Hotel, one of the city's premiere spas.

The Nob Hill Spa tucked away on the premises and open to the public is one of the city’s best. Spa services include “guided imagery massage” and “alchemy transformation massage” or you can stick with the tried and true Swedish and deep tissue.

If you’re not in the mood for a treatment, try the Eucalyptus steam room, take a sauna, or lounge by the infinity pool while nibbling on spa cuisine (lobster and prawn spring rolls, tuna salad nicoise, chicken wraps, smoothies) beside a staggering backdrop of the city. Yoga and Pilates classes are offered and there’s a fitness center and boutique. I opted for a Thai massage that was transcendent.

I stayed there a few years ago in a large suite with a south-facing view which seemed to demand company. I called a few friends, dialed up a bottle of Champagne and we gathered around to toast to the good life. Undoubtedly, we were not the first nor will we be the last…

Photos courtesy of the Huntington Hotel.

pixelstats trackingpixel

The Rio All-Suite Hotel and Casino, off the strip, Las Vegas, NV

Saturday, April 4th, 2009

My husband, Dan Dion is a photographer who travels a lot for business leaving me solo with my two kids, aged four and one. This time, I got smart and roped him in to guest blogging for me. Here is his take on the Rio Hotel in Vegas.

The Rio All Suites Hotel and Casino in Las Vegas, NV.
The Rio All Suites Hotel and Casino in Las Vegas, NV.

I’m not a big VEGAS guy. I can usually handle it for two or three days, tops. Gambling…I’m sorry…”gaming” isn’t really my thing, though I can kill a fair amount of time with video poker while sucking back beers and watching sports.

So I was actually looking forward this trip because I was only going to be there for one night. I had a photo shoot with Penn Jillette- the mouthier, bombastic half of comedy/magic/illusionist duo Penn and Teller, who have an ongoing show at the Rio All-Suite Hotel and Casino.

Having mostly been there on weekends previously, I was curious what Vegas was like on a Tuesday in the off-season. Would the cream rise to the top, or would the worst features stand out? Turns out it was a little of both.

As an “all-suite” hotel, The Rio delivers at a great price. My room was just $70 and enormous. There was a comfortable king-sized bed, a couple of couches, and a bathroom larger than some hotel rooms I’ve stayed in in New York for three times the price. There was both a stocked mini-bar refrigerator, as well as another one for personal foodstuffs. My biggest beef? No WiFi, which in this day and age is like having a hotel without running water. DSL was available via a cable (a cable is a plastic-encased wire that “plugs in” to a computer) for $10 a day.

The suites are huge and the price is right at The Rio.
The suites are huge and the price is right at The Rio.

But suite or no suite, Vegas is not meant to be spent in one’s room, and I had an hour or so before my shoot, so I want to explore the hotel. Rio’s theme is Carnival, which is a better concept than, say, Venice, for a Las Vegas casino. I just think scantily clad cocktail waitresses go better with modern festive Brazil than the Renaissance. But then I’m a history buff.

The staff at the theater couldn’t have been more different. The box office was very polite, and the bartender was gregarious and joking with almost every customer. It had been over 15 years since I’d seen Penn and Teller, and was pleasantly surprised that their show is actually much more nuanced and low-tech than when I’d seen their “Broadway” show at The Curran Theater in San Francisco. It is truly one of the most sophisticated comedic shows in Vegas.

The show let out around ten, and I expected that I would have many choices for a late dinner. Not so. Although there are more than ten restaurants and cafes in the hotel, at that hour on a Tuesday my options were bleak. RUB BBQ? Closed. All American Bar & Grille? Sign said “Open Late Night”, but not serving. McFadden’s Irish Bar? Transformed from pub into a raunchy Karaoke bar. It seemed my only choice for a proper meal was the Sao Paulo Cafe, which had about as much charm and ambiance as a hospital cafeteria.

To be fair, there were amenities I did not avail myself of- Bret Michaels’ Tattoo Parlor, The Chippendales beefcake review, the popular seafood buffet, and the stunning rooftop bar I’d experienced many years ago, the view from which is the single greatest advantage to staying off the strip.

Dejectedly, I found a Wetzel’s Pretzels, and had a pretzel dog for dinner. I was in bed by 11:30, somewhat ashamed, but not for doing anything naughty, the way Vegas promises I will.

Photos by Dan Dion

pixelstats trackingpixel