Archive for March, 2009

Camping at China Camp State Park in San Rafael, CA (north of San Francisco)

Monday, March 30th, 2009
A visit to the historic China Camp Village is a must.

A visit to the historic China Camp Village is a must.

Admittedly, I’m not big into camping. I’ve been known to make an exception for Burning Man but that’s an entirely different thing…

But there are lots of great places in Northern California to get down to basics, commune with nature, and sleep on dirt. One of them is China Camp State Park in San Rafael, CA, about a 45 minute drive north from San Francisco.

A campsite at China Camp State Park.

A campsite at China Camp State Park.

In the 1880’s, this idyllic slice of land on the San Pablo Bay was a Chinese shrimp-farming village of approximately 500 people from Canton, China.

Today, the state park offers 15 miles of hiking trails and 30 developed campsites in the northwest side of the park at Back Ranch Meadows in a quiet oak and laurel forest.

Sites are exclusively for tent camping and include a picnic table, fire ring and a food locker. Wood is available for $5/bundle. The lockers looked a bit weathered and campers need to furnish their own locks. Clean bathrooms with flush toilets and coin-operated showers are centrally located.  This is not car camping. While the sites aren’t far from the parking lot (between 50 and 300 yards), you do need to haul all of your gear in and out.

Picnics, mountain biking, hiking, swimming, boating and windsurfing are among the activities enjoyed here.

A visit to China Camp Village is a must. A museum walks you through the history of the camp and there is a little crab shack on the pier that juts out into the shimmering blue bay.

The funky little (crab) shack at China Camp Village.

The funky little (crab) shack at China Camp Village.

The park offers free, hour-long “Junior Rangers” programs for kids 7 to 12. Topics include ecology, outdoor safety, survival, wildflowers, California Indians, and history. Call the Ranger Station  (415) 456-0766 for upcoming schedules.

Campsite reservations can be made up to seven months in advance by calling (800) 444-7275.

Photos by Lisa Dion

pixelstats trackingpixel

Tamalpais Motel, Mill Valley, (near Sausalito), CA

Monday, March 23rd, 2009
Tamalpais Motel, where the owner is short on charm.

Tamalpais Motel, where the owner is short on charm.

This is another one for curiosity file.

I pass the Tamalpais Motel every time I’m driving through Marin County going to or from San Francisco. It’s kinda cute — two low terracotta buildings with Spanish tile roofs. The location, though on a very busy highway (101), is in delightful Mill Valley, convenient to the city, Sausalito and the mountain for which it is named.

Last weekend I decided to stop and check it out.

I pulled in and I dour-looking woman strode across the parking lot toward me without expression or greeting. I explained what I do and asked if she had a brochure.

“No.”

OK, then.

I asked if I could see some rooms and she warmed only slightly and showed me a few of the 20 rooms that range in price from $59 to $69 in the low season and $79 to $99 during the rest of the year.

The rooms looked reasonably clean but were dark with dowdy, outdated, plaid bedspreads. All rooms have refrigerators and microwaves, cable television and Wi-Fi. The woman, who turned out to own the property with her family, told me that all the bathrooms had been recently renovated. While two I saw did look nice and shiny. The third could not possibly have been renovated, in fact it looked like it had been shoehorned into a space not meant to be a loo.

A nice feature for families or larger parties traveling together are the four suites with two separate rooms and queen beds in each. One suite has three queen-sized beds.

Though cute from the highway, the Tamalpais is in need of some TLC and a paint job. There is a shabby, cheapness to it. There is also the sense that guests are intruding on this family. They had doors to their rooms open with bikes and lawn chairs spilling out.

Coffee and pastries are offered in the morning or it is a short walk to Strawberry Village with shops, 15 different restaurants from pizza to sushi, a Safeway (with pharmacy) and Starbucks.

pixelstats trackingpixel

Beltane Ranch, Glen Ellen, CA in the Sonoma Valley Wine Country

Saturday, March 21st, 2009
The plantation-style architecture of Beltane Ranch.

The plantation-style architecture of Beltane Ranch B&B in the Sonoma Wine Country.

I turned onto the unpaved path off Highway 12 that leads up to Beltane Ranch and pulled over to snap a photo of the gracious antebellum-style house with gingerbread trim and a wraparound porch. The pasture in front was wild with mustard blossoms. Springtime in Sonoma. When my daughter Parker and I stepped out of the car, two Clydesdales trotted up to us and stuck their noses through the fence for us to pet them. The air was fresh from the morning rain. I had brought Parker to see the place where her dad and I spent our wedding night. She’s at that age in which she’s curious about stories from mommy and daddy’s past. It was just as beautiful as I remembered it. A perfect slice of bucolic Wine County heaven. We met the housekeeper Angie who gave Parker a homemade chocolate chip cookie and allowed us run of the place to peek into the rooms and wander about the gardens and yard.
Horses greeted us when we visited.

These friendly horses greeted us at Beltane Ranch.

There are five rooms on two stories of the main house, ranging in price from $150 to $200. Most open on both sides to the veranda with views of the vineyards, mountains and the Valley of the Moon. The elegantly furnished rooms are airy and inviting and the inn has free Wi-Fi. Parker climbed on to one of the wooden porch swings and asked for a push. Next I took her to see the sweet, two-room cottage behind the main house that I had booked for my wedding six years ago. As we tiptoed inside, my mind transported me straight back to that sunny, October day, dressing and primping with my bridesmaids in the bedroom and sipping wine to calm my nerves on the little porch. I recalled the bathroom strewn with make-up and hair products, the flatiron at the ready to tame my curls, and me giddy with excitement. Even without the sunshine and excitement, the cottage was just as lovely as I remembered it. At the Beltane Ranch, the fruit and vegetables served at the full breakfast are grown on the estate, and the olive oil used is produced from olives grown in their orchards. We wandered off toward the tennis court, Parker walking on top of a stone wall that encircled a flower bed. Little outdoor conversation areas near the house basked in the view, perfect, intimate places to enjoy a snack or glass of wine and some company. Miles of walking trails surround the ranch leading through high meadows and redwood-filled canyons. The Beltane Ranch is perfect in its simplicity and serenity. I made a mental note to book my anniversary weekend. Some places just beg you to return. Photos by Lisa Dion pixelstats trackingpixel

Sugarloaf Ridge State Park, Kenwood, Sonoma County, CA

Monday, March 16th, 2009
A family campsite Sugerloaf Ridge State Park.

A family campsite in the meadow Sugerloaf Ridge State Park.

Did you know that sugar used to be sold in “loaves” that looked like over-sized, upside-down ice cream cones? Cool image that explains why there are so many “Sugarloaf” mountains around.

Sugarloaf Ridge State Park is located in Kenwood, in the heart of the Sonoma Wine Country. Some of the Valley of the Moon’s best wine is made just below these lofty peaks at St. Francis, Chateau St. Jean, Kunde, and Landmark Wineries.

Up top, in the meadow at 1,200 feet, the state park offers 49 developed family campsites with fire pits and tables, a group camp, picnic sites and trails.

Spring is a great time to visit. A 25-foot waterfall flows along Sonoma Creek below the campground after the winter rains. The meadow bursts to life with wildflowers that wash the mountain with a stunning color palette. California poppies, cream cups, purple lupine, shooting stars, trillium and buttercups blend into a carpet of color.

Activities include 25 miles of trails traverse the oak woodland and chaparral for hiking and horsebackriding. Triple Creek Horse Outfit runs the riding concession that operates spring through fall.

A bridge crossing Sonoma Creek.

A bridge crossing Sonoma Creek.

On a clear day, the view from the top of Bald Mountain are staggering. At the 2,729-foot summit, you can see the Sierras to the east, San Francisco Bay and Mount Diablo to the south, Mount Tamalpais and Mount St. Helena to the north.

One seriously cool feature of Sugarloaf Ridge is the Robert Ferguson Observatory. This non-profit association provides astronomy education and events year-round.  Events include Night Sky Series and Public Observation Nights. I plan to attend an Aries Full Moon party there next month…

Family campsites at Sugarloaf range from $14 to $20 per night, depending on time of year.

Photos by Lisa Dion

pixelstats trackingpixel

Kids’ Suite at Hotel Union Square, San Francisco, CA

Saturday, March 14th, 2009
The cable car in front of Hotel Union Square, SF.

A cable car glides by the front of Hotel Union Square in San Francisco.

What exactly is a “kids’ suite?” I wondered.

I decided to find out.

I met my husband and our children, ages four and one, after work last week at the Hotel Union Square in San Francisco. Even though I arrived just 20 minutes after they checked in, when I opened the door it looked like a cyclone had hit the handsome, spacious room.

The kids were having a blast.

Roman had found a little play kitchen and was mixing, blending and cooking.

Parker had dumped out pile of wooden blocks, but had since moved on to a toy keyboard upon which she was writing an original composition.

I stepped over a football and Chinese checkers to hand Dan a glass of complimentary Cabernet from downstairs in the posh lobby.

Dropping my backpack on the bed at the other end of the suite I had my “aha” moment.

Kids’ suite. So, this is what they mean….

Built in 1913 for the Pan Pacific International Exhibit, the historic hotel has great bones and sturdy walls that could tell many stories. During Prohibition, San Franciscans thumbed their noses at authority and sneaked down into to the Golden Bubble, a 10,000 square-foot speakeasy beneath the lobby. And Dashiell Hammett, author of The Maltese Falcon and The Thin Man booked his fiance a suite here the night before their wedding.

The Hotel Union Square underwent a $5 million renovation last spring. The result is sophisticated and sleek — gray pinstriped carpets, exposed brick walls, sumptuous Serta mattresses and comfortable conversation areas throughout. Though the design is minimalist and contemporary, beautiful art works from Egyptian-style mosaics to jazz era paintings and metal sculpture are sprinkled throughout.

There is even the Dashiell Hammett suite, an homage to the San Francisco scribe with vintage photos and period ephemera including a Royal typewriter.

Party time in the kids' suite at Hotel Union Square, SF.

Party time in the kids suite at the Hotel Union Square in San Francisco.

But, back to the Kids’ Suite. The oversized room looks out onto Powell Street, above the cable car line. Two passes for the cable car are included with the room. The front desk offered a portable crib for my little guy, but the kids were very comfortable in the trundle bed.

After an early dinner at Lori’s Diner across the street, we came back to try out the Wii. At storytime we tapped into the book collection that covered many reading levels and subjects from Humpty Dumpty to Hannah Montana.

The Union Square location is good for families — a Walgreens is across the street and I counted at least five affordable restaurants on the block — from Blondie’s Pizza and Subway to Thai and Indian cuisines, and a steak house.

Teenagers will like the proximity to Urban Outfitters, Rasputin Records, Forever 21 and the Gap.

Drawbacks?

It’s noisy. If you or your kids are unaccustomed to urban noise, it might be too much. The night we were there was trash/recycling night which notched up the volume considerably. Despite that, we all slept well.

No fridge. This was particularly inconvenient since they don’t serve Continental breakfast and I had stopped to pick up milk and fruit for the morning but had no place to store it.

Some sharp corners and a nonbaby-friendly bathroom. Not a huge deal, but since my little man can open doors, I was constantly retrieving him from inside the plexiglass shower and off the slippery tiled floor.

Would I book another kids’ suite? Absolutely. I totally get it, and I appreciate the attention to needs of children when traveling. It was so nice not having to pack a boatload of toys to keep them busy and to have a space large enough for them to play while my husband and I relaxed and sipped wine across the room. Now that’s almost a vacation!

Photos by Dan Dion

pixelstats trackingpixel

Edward II Inn & Suites, San Francisco, CA

Monday, March 9th, 2009
The Edwards II Inn & Suites.

The Edwards II Inn & Suites.

The Edward II Inn and Suites is a 100 year-old work-in-progress. This place just oozes potential. I just seemed to have hit it during a real in-between phase.

Let’s start with the good stuff. The Edwards II has been catching my eye for years whenever I would drive down Lombard Street. On a strip with abundance of bland motels, this little English B&B with a castle-like turret and a cozy British pub, stands out.

When I stopped in, I met the “interim innkeepers,” a couple who were quick to tell me that they were actually from Dallas and had only been in San Francisco for a week. The gentleman showed me to some cute, tidy rooms that range from $69 to $175 per night.  Some had a strong antiseptic smell, but the beds I tried were comfy. The less expensive rooms are “European style” (read: shared bath), the higher-priced rooms are junior suites.

There are also two longer-term apartments with kitchens, jetted tubs and laundry facilities in a charming carriage house across the street. These apartments rent for $250 per night.

The hotel was originally built to house guests of the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exhibition. Lovely leaded glass details are threaded throughout, adorning windows and doors of this 29 room, three-story inn. A gorgeous stained-glass skylight crowns the ceiling at the top of the stairs.

Breakfast at the Edwards II, inn in transition.

Breakfast at the Edwards II, inn in transition.

When I asked about Bloomer’s Pub, I was told that it was closed indefinitely. There was also no information about Cafe Maritime, the restaurant that is featured on the website. Ditto for the fitness center, which I assumed was a deal worked out for guests in a nearby gym. Same thing when asked about spa treatments. I was told that the owner was making changes and things were in transition. Then, the flummoxed female innkeeper basically dismissed me.

I plan to check back on Edward II in a few months to see what kinks have been worked out. It’s a sweet place that in the right hands could be a gem. Stay tuned!

Photos by Lisa Dion

pixelstats trackingpixel

Monte Cristo Bed & Breakfast, San Francisco

Saturday, March 7th, 2009
The Monte Cristo, a former bordello turned B&B

The Monte Cristo, a former bordello turned B&B.

Jack Su, the proprietor of the Monte Cristo Bed & Breakfast in San Francisco, is an elegant man with an extensive collection of art and antiques.  When he acquired this property in 2007, he found the perfect showcase for his fixtures and furnishings, as well as a very time-consuming new project — remodeling this long-neglected inn, with a checkered and fascinating history.

A former bordello, the colorful Monte Cristo Saloon was built in 1875, and operated during the turn of last century. The “saloon” survived the the 1906 earthquake and the great San Francisco fire, becoming a refuge to many who lost their homes in the disaster.

Though the building was added onto in 1912, if you peek through a skylight on the second floor you can still see the painted letters of the original Monte Cristo sign. Su and his partner discovered this artifact after cleaning years of grime off the glass panes.

Old green shag rugs were torn up to reveal original plank floors, that slope in places. Su has filled the 14 rooms with one-of-a-kind pieces he has picked up at auctions, as well as brand-new Simmons pillow-top mattresses. The flowered wallpaper has a dizzying effect that might remind you of a childhood visit to your great aunt’s house, and some of the rooms smell damp. New double-paned windows seal the cozy rooms from urban noise.

Monte Cristo's rooms are filled with antiques.

Rooms at the Monte Cristo are filled with antiques.

Rooms range from $129 to $149 including breakfast, and all have small but sparkling new bathrooms. The junior suite rents for $200 per night.

Wi-fi is free and a computer with printer is available to guests.

The Monte Cristo’s website has lots of valuable information for guests with links to nearby shopping districts, museums, restaurants, tour and transportation.

Top photo by Lisa Dion, adjacent photo courtesy of the Monte Cristo.

pixelstats trackingpixel