Archive for November, 2008

The Historic San Remo Hotel, San Francisco, CA

Saturday, November 22nd, 2008
The San Remo Hotel was a boarding house for many sailor and artists after the 1906 quake.

The San Remo Hotel was a boarding house for sailors and artists after the 1906 quake.

On the edge of North Beach in San Francisco, this European-style pensione is a little slice of maritime and bohemian history.  Built in 1906 after the devastating earthquake, the stately Italianate Victorian with a lively street-level restaurant gave refuge to sailors and longshoremen who worked in the nearby shipyards as well as Italian immigrants, poets, artists and writers. Free room and board was offered to a transient labor force that helped rebuild the city, and according to San Remo legend, penniless artists paid for lodging with their paintings.

Today, the 62 rooms feature lovingly-restored details from that era — beveled leaded glass windows, redwood wainscotting, stained glass skylights and decorative wood carved fretwork. In the hallways are little nooks for conversation or reading, overstuffed bookcases and vintage photos and ephemera on the walls. Impeccable shared bathrooms have clawfoot bathtubs, pedestal sinks and brass pull-chain toilets.

Fior d’Italia moved into the restaurant space downstairs in 2005 after fire chased the self-proclaimed “oldest Italian restaurant in America” from its anchor position on the southeast corner of Washington Square Park.

Rooms are small but charming, some with brass beds or antique oak armoires. Many rooms have sinks but there are no private baths, TVs or phones. Though the vibe throughout is decidedly Old World, WiFi is available in the hallway. The funky rooftop penthouse has amazing views of Coit Tower and Telegraph Hill and amenities including a refrigerator and private bathroom.
A view of Coit Tower from the rooftop penthouse.

A view of Coit Tower from the rooftop penthouse.

Prices are from another era as well, starting at $65. The San Remo also offers special package deals that include reduced rates for extended stays and discounts at Fior d’Italia, the Wax Musuem and on the cable cars.

The location on the fringes of North Beach, at the foot of Telegraph Hill and next door to Fisherman’s Wharf is unbeatable. Legions of travelers from all over the world found bargain-priced lodging at this affordable gem, adding to its groovy, bohemian ambiance.

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Seal Rock Inn, San Francisco, CA

Monday, November 17th, 2008
The Seal Rock Inn has the only ocean views in San Francisco.

The Seal Rock Inn has the only ocean views in San Francisco.

I live 10 minutes from Ocean Beach and taking my children to play on the four-mile strip of sandy coastline is a favorite pastime. The Seal Rock Inn near Lands End, San Francisco’s only oceanside lodging, has long piqued my curiosity. I decided to pop in last weekend and check it out.

The look and feel of the Inn is dated, like stepping back a half century in time. It more like a 1960’s-era motor lodge-meets-resort with parking below. The flyer at the front desk promises “color television and direct dialing phones.” Old school.

I checked out room 209, facing lush, scenic Sutro Heights Park and the roiling ocean beyond. It was spacious and clean, but dowdy and desperate for a facelift. According to the desk clerk, rooms on the top floor, all with wood-burning fireplaces, are indeed undergoing renovations.

The Inn is family owned and will celebrate it’s 50th anniversary next year. Rates are quite reasonable — off-season rooms for two people range from $120-$152. During the high season rooms start at $135.

The Seal Rock Inn Restaurant, a diner with nice views serving decent omelettes and pancakes, occupies part of the bottom floor. On the first floor is a spacious patio with pool, a diminutive volleyball net, ping pong table, small garden and chairs.  Connecting rooms and suites are roomy options for family.

The interior patio at the Seal Rock Inn in San Francisco.

The interior patio at the Seal Rock Inn in San Francisco.

If you’re an ocean lover or hiker, the location is unsurpassed. Ocean Beach, just below the inn, is great for surfing (with a wetsuit of course, the water is frigid year-round), sunbathing, kite flying, running and just plain chillin’.

Two amazing hikes are just outside the door. On the ruggedly beautiful Lands End hike, look for the rusted remains of ships who met their demise here on the jagged cliffs as well as remnants of an abandoned railroad that led to the Sutro Baths, now in ruins below.

Farther east, the Eagle’s Point trek winds through misty forests to a hidden cove. On the way, there’s a viewing platform to take in magnificent views of the Golden Gate Bridge and the Marin Headlands.

If all that beaching and hiking makes you hungry, head to the Cliff House, a San Francisco icon that has been through many transformations in its long and checkered history. Here you can opt for casual dining at The Bistro or a fancier experience at Sutro’s. Both have some of the best views in the city.

Don’t forget to visit the Camera Obscura, tucked behind the Cliff House.  Based on a 15th design by Leonardo da Vinci, it produces 360-degree magnified views of the Seal Rock Area. It’s the last remaining structure of Playland at the Beach, the 10-acre seaside amusement park that enthralled the masses from the turn of the last century till 1972.

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Hyatt Regency Hotel San Francisco Holiday Lighting Extravaganza

Saturday, November 15th, 2008
The atrium lobby of the Hyatt Regency lighted for the holidays.

The atrium lobby of the Hyatt Regency lighted for the holidays.

Like visiting Santa at Macy’s, viewing the tree at Union Square or catching a matinee of the  Nutcracker at the Opera House, a trip to the Hyatt Regency San Francisco has become a must-do during the holiday season in San Francisco.

For starters, there is the dramatic 17-story atrium lobby, awe-inspiring any time of year and recognized in the Guinness Book of World Records as the largest hotel lobby  (not to mention a great place to wow kids by riding the glass elevators that rise and plummet above it).

During the holidays the atrium is strung with cascading strands of 300,000 (energy-efficient) white lights. Add to that, a towering 45-foot Christmas tree and a massive geodesic sphere suspended above a reflecting pool. It’s pretty spectacular.

But the Snow Village, a display of more than 3,000 handcrafted winter-themed collectibles, some movable, is the highlight. A private collection of ceramic pieces — mini ice skating rinks, chalets, trains, snowmen, ski gondolas — is the largest of its kind in the United States.

The Snow Village features 3,000 collectibles.

The Snow Village features 3,000 collectibles.

To entice visitors to come and stay, the Hyatt is offering a holiday sale package that includes a guest room for two, $25 credit toward food and beverages at the Eclipse restaurant and Christmas tree seeds to take home and plant. The holiday package runs from Nov. 22 - Jan. 1. Room rates start at $159.

Two big lighting ceremonies take place here on Friday, Nov. 21. The exterior building lighting ceremony (which illuminates the silhouttes of the five Embarcadero buildings at the foot of Market St.) and the lighting of interior of the atrium lobby. The events are held concurrently, starting at 6 p.m. outside at the ice rink, then moving inside to the lobby at 7 p.m. The hotel will be the scene of much revelry with Dickensian-style characters and carolers roaming about and cookies and punch served.

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Pigeon Point Lighthouse Hostel, Pescadero, CA

Tuesday, November 11th, 2008
Pigeon Point Lighthouse has an affordable guest hostel.

Pigeon Point Lighthouse has an affordable guest hostel.

Imagine soaking in an outdoor hot tub perched on a cliff above the Pacific Ocean and falling asleep to the sound of waves crashing against the rocks. Sound like a spendy resort in Big Sur? Actually, it’s a $20/night hostel on the Central Coast.

For a unique, memorable and ridiculously affordable getaway, check out the hostel at Pigeon Point Lighthouse near Pescadero.

Seven miles south of the tiny town of Pescadero and 30 miles north of Santa Cruz on California’s Pacific Coast Highway a graceful beacon looms 115 feet above a treacherous point — the site of numerous shipwrecks including the clipper ship Carrier Pigeon that ran aground in 1853. The outcropping was renamed Pigeon Point and a lighthouse was built here 20 years later.

At the hostel, guests can opt for either shared or private rooms and make use of fully-equipped kitchens, cozy lounge areas and free Wi-Fi. Docent-led history walks, also free, are available on weekends. Beds start at $20 per person and single rooms cost $55.

The Pigeon Point hostel is a good base for whale watching and exploring the pristine coast and ancient redwoods at Butano State Park. Pescadero Marsh, a bird sanctuary, is nearby as is Ano Nuevo State Reserve, breeding ground of northern elephant seals.

This Saturday, November 15 is the annual lighting celebration at the lighthouse. Every November the original Fresnel lens is fired up to commemorate the first lighting 130 years ago. The lens is 16-feet tall, weighs four tons and fitted with 1,008 brass-framed prisms that create an amazing spectacle of 24 beams of rotating lights piercing the night sky.

Photo by Dan Dion

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Hotel Vitale, San Francisco, CA

Saturday, November 8th, 2008
Hotel Vitale

Hotel Vitale

I believe everyone should celebrate birthdays for at least a week.

So, I jumped the gun on my own this year and booked a night at Hotel Vitale on the Embarcadero in the financial district of San Francisco.

I left the kids with grandma, the office behind, and met my husband for a drink at an outdoor table at Chaya. It was dark when we hooked up — one of those rare, warm, magical fall evenings in the city. I ordered a glass of cava and gazed at the Bay Bridge with its glittering strands of white lights.

Our dinner reservations were at Americano, on the ground floor of the hotel a block away, but first we strolled the length of the Deco-inspired Pier 14 that shoots out into the bay, just north of the bridge.  Silver swivel chairs run along both sides inviting visitors to chill out while taking in one of the most breathtaking views of the city’s waterfront — from the graceful tower of the Ferry Building that has beckoned ships to shore for more than a century to the red, neon Hill’s Brothers sign illuminating the bay.

Dinner was tasty — shared plates of delicate sole, an updated take on pasta carbonara and a simple, flavorful escarole salad with Gorgonzola and pecans. Service was attentive but not intrusive. My favorite part of Americano is the front patio area with heated lamps, long tables with benches and bamboo trees, perfect for hanging out with big groups. There is also a groovy lounge area next to the restaurant in a circular room with comfortable couches and soft, subdued earth tones. We had a nightcap there and ventured up to our room.

The room was decent-sized, the decor sophisticated and handsome, but a tad bland (more earth tones). A four-CD set called Elemental Chill was on the nightstand and there was an array of interesting products for sale at the honor bar that included canned oxygen and a holistic hangover remedy. Free yoga classes are offered in the mornings and the upstairs Spa Vitale is known for “the bathing ritual,” in which a bath infused with “seasonal fresh bath products” is drawn for guests on the rooftop garden  It was all very mind/body/spirit.

We had a magnificent view of the bay and legendary Boulevard restaurant across the street. Vintage F-line cars whizzed by along the Embarcadero The bed had to be one of the most comfortable I’ve ever slept in, done up in soft pillows and white sheets from San Francisco Linens.

My only real gripe about Vitale is that it lacks a central meeting area other than the small, busy front desk location, and the spaces don’t flow well together. Bad Feng Shui? Also, it turned out that I was unable to partake in the yoga class due to some issue with the space (less body/spirit pour moi), but the front desk graciously gave us a late check-out. We found a rooftop terrace that looked out over the Embarcadero to read and relax. I definitely left feeling rested and refreshed as the marketing materials suggested.

It’s been an auspicious start to birthday week.

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The Madonna Inn, San Luis Obispo, CA

Monday, November 3rd, 2008

The ornate horsheoe coffee bar at the Madonna Inn.It has nothing to do with Madge, Guy Ritchie and post-divorce property distribution. Rather, this eccentric roadside attraction is a bastion of kitsch and an homage to questionable taste. But all in good fun. Think Alice in Wonderland meets Dr. Seuss — in the 1950s.

The 109 guest rooms at The Madonna Inn, just off Highway 1 in San Luis Obispo, run the gamut in theme from the Caveman (a rustic den of floor-to-ceiling solid rock with a cascading waterfall) to the Irish Hills (a green and gilted affair more garish than Irish) to the Krazy Dazy room (swathed in oversized pink and white daisy printed wallpaper with a Pepto-Bismol-colored shag rug). Cascading waterfalls and large boulders are featured in several of the other rooms and bathrooms.

Outlandish decor isn’t confined to guest rooms. Pink is lavished on walls and surfaces and even the sugar served in the outrageously tricked-out Copper Cafe  is pink. If you don’t stay overnight, it is worth it to stop by for lunch at the coffee shop, dinner at the Gold Rush restaurant or just to rummage around at the gift shop and bakery.

The Madonna Inn is a popular lodging destination for those traveling to Hearst Castle. If you’re looking to stay in one of the more outrageous rooms, plan ahead. Room rates are from $179-$449. Some rooms are in need of updating but the new pool/spa is a lovely, restful addition to this curious, fun-spirited dwelling.

Photo by Dan Dion

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