Archive for October, 2008

Hotel del Sol in San Francisco, California

Friday, October 31st, 2008

The lobby of the Hotel del Sol in San Francisco, CA.My brother got married this past June and as big sister/bridesmaid/travel writer, I was tapped to help find suitable accommodations for the incoming legions of friends and family. The stipulations — affordable, family-friendly and close to the Presidio where the wedding took place.

I set my sites on the lively Marina district of San Francisco adjacent to the Presidio, a former military post which is now one of the most stunning public areas in the city. The Marina is close to the bay as well as restaurants, cafes, the Exploratorium (a hands-on science museum), a great playground and two huge waterfront parks — the Marina Green and Crissy Field. There are several motels/motor lodges on Lombard St. which rambles over Russian Hill (the crooked part) and cuts through the Marina into the Presidio. Among the strip of run-of-the-mill motels, a bright, sunny yellow beacon beckoned — the aptly named, Hotel del Sol.

This vibrant, colorful, former ’50s-style motor lodge, has been renovated into a cheerful boutique hotel with a heated outdoor pool and a Southern California vibe. The interior courtyard is lined with hammocks suspended between palm trees. Amenities for kids include sun visors, sunglasses, beach balls, a free video library and cookie hour from 3-5 p.m. A nice feature for families is that suites are split and have a separate sitting area next to the small bedroom. The “family suite” has bunk beds, kid-sized furnishings, toys and games. Continental breakfast is served poolside and parking is free. We booked it.

One big caveat is that the common outside area is next to the parking lot, so for young children and kids prone to bolting, parents need to be extra vigilant. Suites come with refrigerators and microwaves, but guests need to request them for standard rooms.The heated pool under a canopy of palms at Hotel del Sol.

The wedding went off without a hitch and most guests were pleased with their lodgings, though one couple complained that the walls were too thin and that the hotel was just an overpriced motor lodge with a paint job — but hey, that’s family, there’s always one, n’est-ce pas?

Photos by Dan Dion

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The Red Victorian Inn, San Francisco

Monday, October 27th, 2008
The Red Victorian

The Red Victorian Bed, Breakfast and Art on Haight St.

Janis and Jerry may be long gone, but the Summer of Love is still alive at the Red Victorian Inn in the Haight-Ashbury district of San Francisco.

Eighteen affordable, thematic guest rooms with names like the Flower Child Room, the Peacock Suite and the Redwood Forest Room are vibrant, colorful and individually decorated. The Sunshine room extends the solar motif from the headboard to the walls to the sink basin. Six of the rooms have private baths and five shared bathrooms accommodate the others, though all rooms have their own sink. Here’s the best part — rates range from $75-$229.

The Peace Cafe, a gift shop and art gallery make up the ground floor level. Breakfast is included and world conversation is encouraged at this friendly, funky hotel that was build in 1904 but is associated more with 60’s-era values than those of the Victorian period.

The upper Haight neighborhood is renowned for great retail — trendy boutiques, shoe stores, vintage clothing shops and Amoeba, the legendary independent music store that occupies 24,000 square feet in a former bowling alley and sells new and used music on vinyl and CD.

Vintage shop on the Haight

Vintage shop on the Haight.

Good, inexpensive food abounds here. Besides New York-style thin crust pizza and plump, juicy burritos, the span of Haight Street from Masonic to Shrader includes a wine bar, a brew pub and a Persian cocktail lounge. Cha Cha Cha offers a lively ambiance, delicious Caribbean fare and their signature sangria. At Kan Zaman, diners sit on cushions the floor while eating Mediterranean food and watching belly dancers. Or for those craving Asian flavors, the Citrus Club noodle bar is the way to go.

Golden Gate Park is mere blocks away with miles of open spaces, hiking and biking trails, three museums, botanical gardens and a fabulous children’s playground with vintage carousel.

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Costanoa on California’s Central Coast

Saturday, October 25th, 2008
The Lodge at Costanoa in Pescadero, CA.

The Lodge at Costanoa in Pescadero, CA.

There are those who like to camp in the great outdoors and others who prefer down comforters and five-star amenities. But who says you can’t have both? For folks who like to mix their kayaking and horseback riding with a reflexology massage and Internet access, there is  Costanoa.

Located in Pescadero on the central coast of California north of Santa Cruz, this eco-resort consists of 40 rooms in a cozy lodge setting, 12 cabins with porches, decks and fireplaces and 70 of the popular tent bungalows.

The bungalows, built on wood frames with canvas tent walls, come in different configurations — some have queen-sized beds that accommodate two while the “family” bungalows are good for larger groups. Bungalows have electricity, sliding windows, locking doors, down bedding and heated mattress pads. Three “comfort stations” with heated concrete floors are placed around the camp and house indoor hot showers, saunas and outdoor fireplaces. The family-style accommodations consist of a pairing of two side-by-side bungalows that can fit up to six. A hot tub in the Lodge is open to all guests who stay in the lodge, cabins or bungalows.

For those who want to rough it, tent sites are available with a wood platform, parking space, water and electricity.

Sixteen hikes within 15 miles of the camp include Ano Nuevo, Big Basin, and Butano State Park. Visitors can explore local tide pools and coastal dunes or take advantage of on-site horseback riding, kayaking and windsurfing. Other on-site activities include stargazing with a NASA researcher, a guided birdwatching tour with an orinthologist, live music and yoga classes. There are nature tours, lectures and presentations and cool programs for children.

For the luxury minded, the spa offers a tempting menu of services including reflexology, deep tissue, scalp massage and a dry brush exfoliating technique.

The Cascade Bar & Grill serves coastal California cuisine featuring local wines, sustainable seafood and organic produce.  A General Store on the premises sells everything from jewelry and candles to fair-trade chocolate to biodegradable cutlery. Here you can pick up picnic fare, a kite, a game of Scrabble and some spa products before you head off for a 10-mile hike or straight to the hot tub.

Rates range from $115-$365 depending on the type of lodging and season.

Photo by Dan Dion

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The Inn at the Tides, Bodega Bay, CA

Saturday, October 18th, 2008
A view of Bodega Bay from the Inn at the Tides.

A view of Bodega Bay from the Inn at the Tides.

Last weekend my husband Dan and I celebrated our five-year anniversary. Some people give gifts of wood, and since I don’t need any more cutting boards or salad bows, I was thinking about an overnight getaway. A wood-shingled cabin would work just fine.

We secured childcare and hastily booked a room at the Inn at the Tides in Bodega Bay. I had no idea what to expect as we dropped the kids with friends in Bolinas and headed up the Pacific Coast Highway. We stopped first in Pt. Reyes Station for some necessary supplies — sunglasses and a hat for me and some triple-cream Mt. Tam cheese at Cowgirl Creamery to pair with a crisp, tart apple and a ripe pear. We wandered into a few galleries in town and then onto Point Reyes Vineyard to sample a flight of wines in their charming tasting room.

We listened to Van Morrison as we drove the rest of the way up the coast, arriving in late afternoon. The Inn is actually a collection of low-lying shingled buildings that blend artfully into the natural landscape and are built on a well-landscaped slope overlooking the bay. We were offered a choice between a patio or fireplace. We opted for the patio room where we shared a complimentary bottle of Sauvingnon Blanc provided by the Inn. Cows grazed on the horizon up above. I was relaxed already.

The room itself had two queen beds and  was in need of an update, it had that cookie-cutter sameness you expect from large chain hotels.

We decided to mosey over to the pool/spa and slipped into the 14-person tub with exceptionally strong jets. The pool was considerably cooler, but sparkling clean and big enough to do laps. The Finnish sauna was perfectly hot and dry.

Dinner reservations were at Nick’s Cove in Marshall, recently renovated by San Francisco restaurateur Pat Kuleto, who opened the Fog City Diner among many other establishments. Nick’s reminded me of a fresher take of the lobster restaurants on Cape Cod I remember growing up. I ordered halibut served over fingerling potatoes, Dan went for a seafood bouillabaisse with huge prawns and tender, sweet clams. We were both blown away by the simplicity and flavor of the heirloom tomatoes we sampled as a starter.

After dinner we strolled down the pier behind the restaurant and listened to the water gently lapping as the wood pilings groaned beneath our weight. Tomales Bay sparkled in the inky black night.

It sure beat another cutting board…

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Jack London Lodge, Glen Ellen, CA

Monday, October 13th, 2008

Outside the saloon at the Jack London Lodge in Glen Ellen, CA.The London Lodge holds a special place in my heart. When my husband Dan and I were dating, he sometimes took me up to his family’s home on a small vineyard in Kenwood. That house was magical, on a slope overlooking eight acres of Chardonnay grapes. For miles, all you could see was vines and sky. I was drunk on love and wine.

Part of our routine on these excursions from San Francisco to Sonoma was to stop at the Jack London Lodge in Glen Ellen for a welcome-to-the-wine-country bevvie before we arrived at the house. Sometimes we’d have a drink in the saloon, a red brick, frontier-style building with a wide front porch. It’s easy to imagine swinging saloon doors and cowboy silhouettes lounging in the frame. More often though, we’d sit creekside on the back garden patio to drink wine and swoon. The London Lodge became part of our personal mythology. It seemed natural that we should get married there.

So five years ago, we booked all 22 rooms with friends and family on the day of the big event, and took over the joint. The Lodge itself is just that, a lodge — spare, efficient and motel-like — but it’s adjacent the lovely garden patio, pool and hot tub, and is quite affordable by Wine Country standards ($90-$125 per night in low season; $125-$185 in high season). It lies in the tiny center of Glen Ellen in the Valley of the Moon, one of the sweetest spots in all of Sonoma Valley. Affiliated with the Lodge is the Wolf House restaurant, who masterfully catered our wedding.

Just up the hill behind the Lodge on London Ranch Road, is the 85-acre Benziger Family Winery, one of my favorite wineries in Sonoma. The Benziger clan is a warm, friendly bunch who employ biodynamic farming techniques in their wine growing and making. Tram tours of the stunning property offer education about the intricate biodynamic process, the highest form of organic farming, which involves insects, birds and bats to delicately balance the eco-system.

If you drive to the top of London Ranch Road, you’ll reach Jack London State Park, where the magnificent stone ruins of London’s “Wolf House” solemnly rest, destroyed by fire in 1913 before the legendary writer/adventurer was ever able to inhabit it. He and his wife were living in a nearby cottage during the construction and woke to flames early that morning.  The park has hiking trails to the ruins and to London’s grave. Horseback riding through the park and surrounding vineyards is perhaps the best way to explore the Valley of the Moon.

The ruins of Jack London's "Wolf House" that burned to the ground.

Photos by Dan Dion.

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Sonoma’s MacArthur Place

Saturday, October 4th, 2008

The grounds at MacArthur Place Inn and Spa.

I was tired, cranky and eight months pregnant. And I was in dire need of a break from the gray San Francisco summer. My husband Dan suggested driving up to sunny Somoma to kick it for a few days. We knew just the place.

A little over and hour after leaving the city, we checked into a deluxe guestroom at MacArthur Place, just outside of the square in Sonoma. Our room had a twin daybed for our other travel companion, our three-year-old daughter Parker, as well as close proximity to the pool and spa.

For me, the first order of business was to partake in a prenatal massage, to be followed by reading trashy magazines poolside in a fluffy robe, while Dan and Parker splashed around in the spanking-clean, crystal clear pool.

I groaned audibly as Helen, my talented massage therapist, released tensions and toxins from my beleaguered body. The massage was done on a special extra-cushiony maternity table with a cut-out space where your tummy goes. I felt like I was floating on a cloud of expensive Italian linens. The MacArthur Place Spa offers a unique aromatic touch to their treatments by specially blending single-note essential oils for each client. Helen mixed sandalwood and ylang ylang for me and after my treatment she sent me off with a vial of the luscious fragrance.

There’s actually no good reason to leave this resort oasis — you could stay here and have every whim catered too or simply soak in the sun and the beauty — but there was the three-year-old factor to contend with, so after some much welcomed relaxation, we decided to go explore the Sonoma square.

Many people are aware of the Sonoma Cheese Factory and probably have stopped there for yummy sandwiches and picnic fare, but fewer folks know Vella, though they should. Located a few blocks from the square, in any ivy-covered stone building that formerly housed a brewery, Vella is an artisan producer in the finest Old World tradition. We dropped in to the small tasting room to pick up some aged Dry Jack, a sharp, salty delicious grating cheese about as far from creamy, rubbery Monterey Jack cheese as one could imagine.

Then after a stop at the Sonoma Mission, California’s 21st mission at the corner of  Spain and First streets, we ventured into the square to the Tuesday night Farmers’ Market to mix with the locals. Compared to San Francisco’s veritable food orgy on Saturday mornings at the Ferry Building, this seemed rather quaint. It had a homey, community feel to it, with lots of scrubbed teenagers carousing while their parents listened to live jazz among mounds of heirloom tomatoes and white peaches. Despite the heaps of pedigree produce, the  line at the corndog stand remained steady all evening. We brought some fresh stawberries and a homemade corn muffin from the man at the gumbo stand and headed back to our oasis.

Photo credits: Dan Dion

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Point Montara Lighthouse Hostel

Wednesday, October 1st, 2008

I’ve always had a thing about lighthouses. Maybe it’s my New England upbringing and the summers spent on Cape Cod and in Nova Scotia. I find them intriguing, romantic and a bit spooky. It’s this fascination that led me to book my husband, 3-year-old daughter Parker and myself into a private room at the hostel at the Point Montara Lighthouse, in Montara, Calif, just north of Half Moon Bay.

The bargain accommodations are as small and spartan as you might imagine when you think “hostel,” but clean and efficient. We slept in bunk beds and shared a bathroom with the family next door who were traveling with their 6-month-old baby.

But you don’t come here for amenities. You come here for unparalleled views of the rugged, windswept coastline, to watch gray whales migrate in winter or to imagine Prohibition-era rum-runners sailing up the coast to the Moss Beach Distillery.

We sat outside by the historic lighthouse until the wind picked up, then warmed ourselves in the cozy main house before setting out for delicious Mediterranean fare with some local friends at Cafe Gibraltar. The appetizer plate with tender calamari was outstanding and the ocean views and jazz piano made for a wonderful dining experience, even with a small, sometimes unpredictable girl.

We slept soundly that night in our little bunks above the pounding surf and beneath the watchful gaze of the lighthouse.

In the morning we set out to explore Half Moon Bay, the oldest town in San Mateo County, originally called “Spanishtown” when it was established in 1840. Today, the delightful downtown is sweet without being cloying. The spirit and architecture of a western frontier town in apparent, but HMB also bears the distinct stamp of Northern California with two bookshops, an organic eatery, a gallery of Balinese art and a trendy boutique on one block of Main Street.

This block is anchored by Cunha’s Country Grocery, a combination specialty food store and mercantile of yore that has been a cornerstone of the community for more than 100 years. A bulletin board outside is pinned with an eclectic mix of announcements that speak to the essence of the town — children’s pony parties, New Agey healers, farming equipment for sale, women’s retreats and photos of chubby-faced little girls vying for the honor of “queen for the day” at the Portuguese Holy Ghost Festival.

Further down Main Street, the swanky Half Moon Bay Inn serves cocktails to a spirited mix of locals and tourists while a John Deere tractor slowly chugs by. Just another day in this funky little coastal, agricultural city.

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