Archive for the ‘Bed & Breakfasts’ Category

Hayes Valley Inn, San Francisco, CA

Saturday, August 1st, 2009
The Hayes Valley Inn is European-style pension.

The Hayes Valley Inn is European-style pension.

Hayes Valley has emerged over the past decade to become a real gem of a San Francisco neighborhood. And we have the last big earthquake to thank for that.

What was once a dodgy, crime-ridden area with a sooty overpass running through it, is now a sweet enclave of boutiques, restaurants, cafes, galleries, open space, and some truly awesome jewelry and shoe stores.

Part of the fallout of the 1989 earthquake was the closure and demolition of the Fell Street on-ramp that dominated this central neighborhood west of Civic Center and east of Fillmore Street.

The owners of the Hayes Valley Inn also rightfully take some of the credit. They took over a dilapidated residence hotel (read: crack house) and turned it into a cozy, charming European-style pension.

Victorian-style rooms are all unique.

Victorian-style rooms are all unique.

The 28 rooms on three floors each have sinks and vanities, two shared baths per floor are in the hallways. There are two common areas — a kitchen where a free Continental breakfast is served daily and the Ivy room, a comfortable, Victorian parlor with a corner turret looking out over the corner of Hayes and Gough streets. When I was there a French family was making tea and toast and eating fresh fruit in the little kitchen.

Rooms are small but quaint and clean, with antique furnishings. The lobby area and hallway could stand to a fresh carpet though, the carpet looked matted and dirty downstairs and had a discernible odor, which was a turnoff for me.

Rates are exceptionally reasonable, ranging from $76 to $112 with breakfast and free wi-fi. Management is warm and accommodating making guests feel welcome.

The Hayes Valley neighborhood is a great place to shop and offers much in the way of cuisine — from the higher end like Absinthe and Bar Jules to more affordable choices like Frj tz, Stacks and Paxti’s pizzeria.

Affordable and comfortable Hayes Valley Inn.

Affordable and comfortable Hayes Valley Inn.

Hayes Valley Inn

417 Gough  Street

San Francisco, CA 94102

(800) 930-7999

Photos by Lisa Dion

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Inn on Castro, San Francisco, CA

Monday, July 6th, 2009
Inn on Castro caters mainly to a chiefly gay clientele.

Inn on Castro caters mainly to a chiefly gay clientele.

On Sunday, June 28 San Francisco celebrated its annual Pride parade. The city’s gay population and their supporters came out (not pun intended) en masse to celebrate at parties in various locations around the city, but no place more than in the Castro district.

It occurred to me that in the 10 months I’ve contributed to this blog, I hadn’t covered any place in the Castro. Time to change that.

Inn on Castro is a restored Edwardian building one-half block up Castro Street from Market Street. Eight rooms on three floors are available at the inn, and for larger parties, three spacious and well-appointed apartments are located nearby.

Innkeeper Jan de Gier has owned the Inn on Castro for 26 years. He gave me a tour of the inn decorated with modern furnishings, original art, and fresh flowers. Most rooms have mini fridges stocked with water and soda, all have robes, flat-screen tvs, DVD players, and free wi-fi. The patio suite has a relaxing, well-tended outdoor garden with a view. A full breakfast is served daily. One sweet touch is that the extensive collection of napkins and fine china are rotated daily as well.

The living room in the Douglass St. apartment.

The living room in the Douglass St. apartment.

Jan also took me across Market Street to his other properties on Douglass and Caselli sts. Apartments are located in residential areas, off of the main hub of the Castro.

As we drove around the Castro, Jan pointed out some of his favorite spots including Toad Hall, Trigger, Sumi Sushi, Anchor Oyster Bar, and the fabulous piano bar Martuni’s.

An informed innkeeper with a passion for where he or she lives is a true treasure. Jan de Gier is one such person.

We hit it off well, chatting about architecture, food, art, death, relationships, and philosopy.  When he found out I’d never been there, he insisted on taking me to Kite Hill Open Space, which it turns out is not a good place to fly a kite (”too windy, It actually has a down draft”) but was named for the small birds of prey called kites that occupy the hill most of the year.

It was breathtaking. A view of the city I’d never seen in the 19 years I’ve lived here. With the Castro in the forefront, its gynormous rainbow flag flapping in the wind, and the bay receding behind City Hall and the downtown skyline, it was impossible not to feel Pride. Thanks, Jan.

Inn on Castro, 321 Castro Street, San Francisco, CA 94114; 415.861.0321

Photos by Lisa Dion

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The Grove Inn, Alamo Square, San Francisco

Monday, June 1st, 2009
The Grove Inn is quiet and comfy.

The Grove Inn is quiet and comfy.

The Grove Inn is a discreet, unassuming little place east of Alamo Square Park (think “painted ladies” — that iconic row of Victorians in San Francisco).

The location is residential but close to the shops, restaurants, cafes and bars in Hayes Valley, Fillmore Street, and Divisidero Street. Six blocks away is Civic Center, home to the symphony, ballet, City Hall and the Asian Art Museum.

A Gold Rush Era boarding house, it was built in 1865, fell into disrepair years later, then was bought and renovated by the present owners, an East German couple, in 1983.

Rooms are sunny and spacious.

Rooms are sunny and spacious.

Rooms are spacious, sunny, and quiet with large double-paned bay windows and 12-foot ceilings. Eight of the 18 rooms have private baths and all rooms have either a queen or pair of twins. Optional trundle beds are available and two for the rooms connect to form a suite that can accommodate four to six people.

Continental breakfast — croissants, pastry, fruit, tea and coffee –  is served daily.

Host Klaus is engaging without being intrusive and quick with historical facts, opinions on current events and stories. The Grove Inn feels live visiting your (or somebody else’s) aunt and uncle from the “old country.” Stacks of reading materials clutter a bit downstairs and there is no shortage of plastic flowers, but the rooms are clean, bright and tastefully furnished.

The Grove Inn is a restored Gold Rush-era boarding house.

The Grove Inn is a restored Gold Rush boarding house.

There is some street parking but also a lot nearby. Prices are a reasonable $110 to $120.

Photos by Lisa Dion

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The Gaige House, Glen Ellen, Sonoma Valley, CA

Monday, April 13th, 2009
Victorian meets Japanese at the Gaige House.

Victorian meets Japanese at the Gaige House in Glen Ellen, Sonoma Valley, CA.,

My first foray into travel writing was to assist a quirky little British man who had been writing for Insight Guides for decades. The assignment was to research and create a guidebook to the Napa and Sonoma Wine Country for IG.

Sounds glamorous, yes?

He picked me up at my apartment in San Francisco and I knew right away I was in for a bumpy ride. His car looked like a homeless person lived in it. And after the first two intersections, I was positive I’d never make it our alive. He was the worst driver I’ve ever witnessed — to this day. And that was in 1997.

But it gets better.

Our sleeping arrangement for the first night was in a double room at a pleasant Healdsburg inn. It was after we’d arrived and I was uncomfortably claiming my corner of the room when he dropped trou and casually mentioned that he was a nudist. Yup, I’d signed on for two weeks of working closely beside, and traveling with, an old man who likes to hang out naked.

Next morning, I took over the task of booking all of our accommodations.

The zen suites at the Gaige House are the ultimate.

The zen suites at the Gaige House are the ultimate rejuvenation.

I managed to get the last two rooms at the Gaige House for the following night. I practically kissed the innkeeper when I arrived. It was a wonderful experience, not the least of which was having my own room down the hall from Naked Guy but because also because it is one of the sweetest finds in the Sonoma Valley.

The Gaige House has evolved considerably since I visited. An expansion and redesign in 2006 included an addition to the main Victorian building, Japanese-style gardens, soaking tubs and a pool. Today there are 23 room accommodations including 13 spacious spa suites.

If you stay, there’s a good chance that you might not want to leave your Zen-inspired room, but Glen Ellen is a sweet Wine Country village worth exploring. Stop for a tram tour of the biodynamic Benziger Winery, hike in Jack London State Park or watch oil being pressed at the Olive Press, but make sure to have a drink at the London Lodge and mingle the locals — winemakers and waitresses, bikers and bon vivants.

I learned a lot that trip — grace under pressure for sure. John Wilcox turned out to be a harmless little man with great stories, and a good teacher to boot. But try as he did, my travel writing mentor never got me to take my clothes off.

Photos by Lisa Dion (top) and courtesy of the Gaige House (below).

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Beltane Ranch, Glen Ellen, CA in the Sonoma Valley Wine Country

Saturday, March 21st, 2009
The plantation-style architecture of Beltane Ranch.

The plantation-style architecture of Beltane Ranch B&B in the Sonoma Wine Country.

I turned onto the unpaved path off Highway 12 that leads up to Beltane Ranch and pulled over to snap a photo of the gracious antebellum-style house with gingerbread trim and a wraparound porch. The pasture in front was wild with mustard blossoms. Springtime in Sonoma. When my daughter Parker and I stepped out of the car, two Clydesdales trotted up to us and stuck their noses through the fence for us to pet them. The air was fresh from the morning rain. I had brought Parker to see the place where her dad and I spent our wedding night. She’s at that age in which she’s curious about stories from mommy and daddy’s past. It was just as beautiful as I remembered it. A perfect slice of bucolic Wine County heaven. We met the housekeeper Angie who gave Parker a homemade chocolate chip cookie and allowed us run of the place to peek into the rooms and wander about the gardens and yard.
Horses greeted us when we visited.

These friendly horses greeted us at Beltane Ranch.

There are five rooms on two stories of the main house, ranging in price from $150 to $200. Most open on both sides to the veranda with views of the vineyards, mountains and the Valley of the Moon. The elegantly furnished rooms are airy and inviting and the inn has free Wi-Fi. Parker climbed on to one of the wooden porch swings and asked for a push. Next I took her to see the sweet, two-room cottage behind the main house that I had booked for my wedding six years ago. As we tiptoed inside, my mind transported me straight back to that sunny, October day, dressing and primping with my bridesmaids in the bedroom and sipping wine to calm my nerves on the little porch. I recalled the bathroom strewn with make-up and hair products, the flatiron at the ready to tame my curls, and me giddy with excitement. Even without the sunshine and excitement, the cottage was just as lovely as I remembered it. At the Beltane Ranch, the fruit and vegetables served at the full breakfast are grown on the estate, and the olive oil used is produced from olives grown in their orchards. We wandered off toward the tennis court, Parker walking on top of a stone wall that encircled a flower bed. Little outdoor conversation areas near the house basked in the view, perfect, intimate places to enjoy a snack or glass of wine and some company. Miles of walking trails surround the ranch leading through high meadows and redwood-filled canyons. The Beltane Ranch is perfect in its simplicity and serenity. I made a mental note to book my anniversary weekend. Some places just beg you to return. Photos by Lisa Dion pixelstats trackingpixel

Edward II Inn & Suites, San Francisco, CA

Monday, March 9th, 2009
The Edwards II Inn & Suites.

The Edwards II Inn & Suites.

The Edward II Inn and Suites is a 100 year-old work-in-progress. This place just oozes potential. I just seemed to have hit it during a real in-between phase.

Let’s start with the good stuff. The Edwards II has been catching my eye for years whenever I would drive down Lombard Street. On a strip with abundance of bland motels, this little English B&B with a castle-like turret and a cozy British pub, stands out.

When I stopped in, I met the “interim innkeepers,” a couple who were quick to tell me that they were actually from Dallas and had only been in San Francisco for a week. The gentleman showed me to some cute, tidy rooms that range from $69 to $175 per night.  Some had a strong antiseptic smell, but the beds I tried were comfy. The less expensive rooms are “European style” (read: shared bath), the higher-priced rooms are junior suites.

There are also two longer-term apartments with kitchens, jetted tubs and laundry facilities in a charming carriage house across the street. These apartments rent for $250 per night.

The hotel was originally built to house guests of the 1915 Panama-Pacific International Exhibition. Lovely leaded glass details are threaded throughout, adorning windows and doors of this 29 room, three-story inn. A gorgeous stained-glass skylight crowns the ceiling at the top of the stairs.

Breakfast at the Edwards II, inn in transition.

Breakfast at the Edwards II, inn in transition.

When I asked about Bloomer’s Pub, I was told that it was closed indefinitely. There was also no information about Cafe Maritime, the restaurant that is featured on the website. Ditto for the fitness center, which I assumed was a deal worked out for guests in a nearby gym. Same thing when asked about spa treatments. I was told that the owner was making changes and things were in transition. Then, the flummoxed female innkeeper basically dismissed me.

I plan to check back on Edward II in a few months to see what kinks have been worked out. It’s a sweet place that in the right hands could be a gem. Stay tuned!

Photos by Lisa Dion

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Monte Cristo Bed & Breakfast, San Francisco

Saturday, March 7th, 2009
The Monte Cristo, a former bordello turned B&B

The Monte Cristo, a former bordello turned B&B.

Jack Su, the proprietor of the Monte Cristo Bed & Breakfast in San Francisco, is an elegant man with an extensive collection of art and antiques.  When he acquired this property in 2007, he found the perfect showcase for his fixtures and furnishings, as well as a very time-consuming new project — remodeling this long-neglected inn, with a checkered and fascinating history.

A former bordello, the colorful Monte Cristo Saloon was built in 1875, and operated during the turn of last century. The “saloon” survived the the 1906 earthquake and the great San Francisco fire, becoming a refuge to many who lost their homes in the disaster.

Though the building was added onto in 1912, if you peek through a skylight on the second floor you can still see the painted letters of the original Monte Cristo sign. Su and his partner discovered this artifact after cleaning years of grime off the glass panes.

Old green shag rugs were torn up to reveal original plank floors, that slope in places. Su has filled the 14 rooms with one-of-a-kind pieces he has picked up at auctions, as well as brand-new Simmons pillow-top mattresses. The flowered wallpaper has a dizzying effect that might remind you of a childhood visit to your great aunt’s house, and some of the rooms smell damp. New double-paned windows seal the cozy rooms from urban noise.

Monte Cristo's rooms are filled with antiques.

Rooms at the Monte Cristo are filled with antiques.

Rooms range from $129 to $149 including breakfast, and all have small but sparkling new bathrooms. The junior suite rents for $200 per night.

Wi-fi is free and a computer with printer is available to guests.

The Monte Cristo’s website has lots of valuable information for guests with links to nearby shopping districts, museums, restaurants, tour and transportation.

Top photo by Lisa Dion, adjacent photo courtesy of the Monte Cristo.

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The Just Inn Bed & Breakfast, Paso Robles, Ca

Monday, February 16th, 2009
The Sussex Suite at the Just Inn on the Justin Winery.

The Sussex Suite at the Just Inn on the Justin Winery.

Back in our salad days pre-k (before kids), my husband and I stayed in luxurious, romantic inns up and down the California coast.

The prize for the most sumptuous, goes to the Just Inn Bed & Breakfast in Paso Robles. We discovered it while doing our own version of Sideways, driving through the Paso Robles wine country on our way to Los Angeles.

The Just Inn has just four elegant suites — Tuscany, Provence, Sussex and Bordeaux — tucked away behind the Justin Winery, on a winding road of rolling vineyards lined with oak trees. The spacious suites are decked out, with no details left to chance.

Details like a feather bed with exquisite linens and pillows piled so high there is a step stool to help you get in. I sank into it, feeling like the princess looking for a pea. No peas here…

The Sussex suite where we stayed had handsome inlaid wood floors, a marble bath with Jacuzzi tub, a private balcony with vineyard views, fresh flowers, complimentary wine, and access to lovely English gardens through which we meandered to reach the hot tub and pool.

Deborah’s Room on the premises is a tiny and intimate restaurant serving a creative menu that can be paired with the remarkably good Justin Winery vintages. Their signature wine, Isosceles, is a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Service was personal and friendly without hindering the romantic vibe.

Suites at the Just Inn range from $375 to $395 per night, with 20 percent off for wine club members. The inn is located on the Justin Winery at 11680 Chimney Rock Road in Paso Robles; 805.238.6932.

Not sure when I’ll be doing another Sideways-type tour again, but we’ll always have the halcyon days and nights spent at the Just Inn.

Photo by Dan Dion

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Inn 1890, San Francsico, CA near Haight-Ashbury and Golden Gate Park

Friday, January 30th, 2009
The elegant Victorian Inn 1890 in San Francisco.

The elegant Victorian buildings that make up Inn 1890 in San Francisco.

They don’t advertise. There isn’t even a sign.

I must have walked by the elegant Queen Anne Victorian on the corner of Page and Shrader streets hundreds of times on my way to the Haight.

It stood out to me only because of the gynormous geranium bush, easily the largest I’ve ever seen, that completely enveloped the steps to the side entrance.

It wasn’t until a friend who lives in the ‘hood told me that his family stays at Inn 1890 when they visit from Ireland.

Turns out the stately white building is an unassuming Bed & Breakfast inn that blends seamlessly into the residential Panhandle neighborhood of Edwardian and Victorian homes, just a block from Golden Gate Park.

Innkeeper Steve gave me a tour of some of the 17 rooms, the 24-hour kitchen and the peaceful garden. Many of the guests are short-term lodgers, relatives of patients at nearby UCSF. Others have heard of the Inn from locals and through word-of-mouth.

Inn 1890 has a homey vibe, with cheerful yellow walls and lots of windows. All but two of the unique rooms have private baths, two are suites, and almost all have refrigerators and microwaves. Many have kitchenettes. Period details abound, and some rooms have working fireplaces.

I was a little put off by a old, musty smell in a couple of the rooms, but I guess that goes with the territory in a house that was built in 1890…

A peaceful garden area.

A relaxing garden.

Classical music played in the sunny, well-stocked kitchen where guests are invited to make meals or tea any time of day.

The owners live in an adjacent property on Shrader St. that houses a few more rooms including the “cottage” as well as a one-bedroom apartment that rents out by the month.

Prices are exceptionally reasonable — $99 to $179 per night. Parking is an additonal $10 (and worth it).

Amenities include, free Wi-Fi, computer and printer, free in-room phone service, robes and slippers, queen-sized beds and down comforters.

Steve and the staff put out a large spread of breakfast items and goodies — fresh fruit, quiche, assorted cheeses, breads, muffins, cakes, and “always pie” — throughout the day.

It really feels like coming home. If your idea of home is a beautiful Victorian in San Francisco.

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Old Monterey Inn, Monterey CA

Monday, January 26th, 2009
The Old Monterey Inn in Monterey, CA.

The Old Monterey Inn in Monterey, CA.

We’re smack in the middle of the slow season for many hotels — winter — which means now is a good time to shop around for deals on getaway packages. Sorry, none to be had in ski country, but coastal California is slashing prices.

If you’ve been jonsing for a trip to Big Sur, Carmel or the Monterey peninsula, the Old Monterey Inn, a  B&B with adjoining spa, is a sweet spot to base yourself and take advantage of the winter doldrums pricing.

Elegant and charming, the historic Tudor-style inn was built in 1929 and was the residence of Monterey’s first mayor. Luxury and romance abounds. With fireplaces and featherbeds in the rooms, you won’t want to leave except to sip sherry in the acre of lush gardens that envelop the grounds.

Full disclosure — I visited the OMI with my husband a few years ago BC (before children) and I have some words of advice — leave the kids at home.

This is a place for both young romantics and more mature travelers looking to enjoy each others’ company  in a plush, restful ambiance. Think honeymoons and anniversaries.

While I didn’t indulge in the spa during my visit, the menu offers the usual suspects — Swedish, deep tissue, sports and aromatherapy as well as stone massage and exfoliating wraps.

Right now you can take advantage of OMI’s mid-week winter promotions offering their lowest rates ever. They also guarantee a room upgrade when available. Check the website for detailed descriptions and to read their charming blog.

Winter Promos include:

  • Winter Pampering — $640 - $1,100 (save $200)
  • Romantic Sunset Bonfire at Carmel Beach — $250 (this is truly fabulous!)
  • Basque in Romance Dining Package — $250-$440
  • Romance on the Menu — $260-$440
  • It Happened…In Monterey — $269-$440
  • The Ultimate Luxury Getaway Package — $2,356-$2,531

Photo by AlliRose

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