Mark Twain was a guest at The Chateau Tivoli mansion.

A few blocks from San Francisco’s famed row of Victorians known as the “painted ladies,” a massive pink mansion stands the corner of Steiner Street and Golden Gate Avenue. Lavishly detailed, the edifice spares no element of Victorian — balusters, widows walks, domed turrets, colorful gables with gingerbread fretwork and iron spires compose the ornate confection known as Chateau Tivoli.

Inside, the heavy grandeur of the double parlor is home to the (unnamed) owners’ collection of antiques and eclectic art and sculpture that includes a pump organ and a statue of Pan. Ceilings are impossibly high, hand-printed wallpapers line the walls, and a dramatic oak staircase spills down from the floor above.

This place is sumptuous and darkly romantic. Built in 1892, the 22-room Tivoli has hosted luminaries like Mark Twain and Isadore during the headier days of its prime. Today it retains a more faded glory, evocative of another time.

The residential location is not for those looking for cable cars and sea lions at their doorstep. But, for travelers interested in exploring a neighborhood where actual San Franciscans live and who enjoy  walking (one of this city’s true assets), Hayes Valley, Fillmore Street and NoPa are bordering neighborhoods. Be careful at night or call a taxi though as some of the surrounding areas can be sketchy.

Seven guest rooms and two suites range in price from $114 to $350. Two rooms share a bath.

The parlor was the setting for a dramatic Goth wedding.

Jonathan, the delightful innkeeper who showed me around, described weddings that have taken place here,  both gay and straight. Most notable was a Goth marriage that came alive in the atmosphere and the telling. I can’t imagine the setting could have been more spot-on.

Continental breakfast is available on weekdays and Champagne brunch with hot entrees like French toast and egg dishes are prepared on weekends.

Chateau Tivoli

1057 Steiner Street

San Francisco, CA 94115

800-228-1647